Trout farmers have hooked themselves a winning business

Anyone who still harbors the romantic notion that trout arefeisty game fish, to be plucked from babbling streams, hasn't seen atrout farm. Bringing fish to market is a sophisticated operationthat is as far removed from hook and line as farming is from horseand plow.

Although many people have heard of catfish farming, trout werethe first fish to be reigned in. Idaho, with its clear air andstreams, has the largest number of fish farms in the United States,and of those, Clear Springs Trout Co., which has been in businessabout 20 years, raises the most fish - about 60 million trout a year.Half the company's product goes to the retail market; the other halfto wholesale outlets, such as restaurants and supermarkets. InChicago, the Chicago Fish House carries products from Clear SpringsTrout Co.

"Farm-raised trout is a little different from wild trout," saidBarbara Croft, assistant product manager for Clear Springs. "It'sgenetically engineered for faster growth, smaller bones, delicatetaste and a firm texture."

Trout that grow wide are encouraged since they makebetter-shaped fillets: long and narrow ones are bred out.

To some aficionados, farm-raised trout (especially if it'sdesigned for `delicate' taste) doesn't have the flavor of a fish thathas been choosing its own food in the wild.

"When it comes to fish, the `you-are-what-you-eat' rule holds,"Croft said. "Trout are fed a diet of anchovies, soy protein, fishmeal, vitamins and minerals. Trout swim in cement raceways withoutmoss or algae that muddy up the taste.

"Some fishermen have told me that nothing beats trout caught inthe pristine springs in some remote part of Idaho," said Croft,doubting that all trout are fished in such ideal conditions.

Even though Idaho provides a natural clean-water environmentfor trout farming, setting up a business is an expensive proposition.Unlike catfish farms that are large ponds dug in the ground, troutfarms require running water that has to be maintained at at 58degrees.

Clear Springs hatches its own trout eggs, raises thefingerlings, processes the grown fish and trucks them to outlets.

"It takes about a year to raise trout for market," said Croft."But the farming operation means we have fish available throughoutthe year."

Most Clear Springs trout is sold fresh as dressed whole fish;boned, head removed; butterflied fillets, and fillets. The leastexpensive way to buy trout is as dressed whole fish (sale prices inChicago supermarkets are less than $3 a pound). It can be stuffed ornot, baked, steamed or grilled. For fast meals, fillets are the bestchoice.

The company offers a booklet with quick trout ideas.

For a copy send a self-addressed, stamped, business-sizeenvelope to: Quick Low-Calorie Recipes II, c/o SY & T, 1000 SansomeSt. Suite 375, San Francisco, Calif. 94111.

Here are three trout recipes to start. RAINBOW TROUT WITH SCALLION GINGER MAYONNAISE

4 (4-ounce) trout fillets 1/4 cup lime juice 1

tablespoon plus 1/8 teaspoon Oriental sesame oil 3tablespoons mayonnaise 5 teaspoons thinly sliced scallions 1 teaspoon peeled and finely minced fresh ginger 1teaspoon fresh lemon juice 1/2 teaspoon soy sauce

Place trout in glass dish with lime juice and 1 tablespoonsesame oil. Set aside at room temperature 30 to 60 minutes.Meanwhile combine remaining sesame oil, mayonnaise, scallions,ginger, lemon juice and soy sauce. Chill.

Remove trout from marinade and place flesh-side down on oiledgrill and cook about 2 minutes. Gently turn and cook 2 more minutes,skin-side down until done, about 2 more minutes. Remove to 2 to 4plates and serve immediately with mayonnaise. Makes 2 large, 4regular servings.

Note: Trout may also be broiled in an oven broiler or sauteed.To broil, place flesh-side down on a oiled broiler pan and broil 4inches from heat for 2 minutes. Gently turn and broil 2 moreminutes. To saute, heat 1 tablespoon each butter and oil in a largeskillet. Add trout and saute 2 to 3 minutes per side. For low-fatcooking, skip the butter and oil and spray skillet with cooking sprayinstead. CAJUN TROUT WITH PECANS

1/4 cup cornmeal 1/4 cup flour 1 teaspoondried thyme 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshlyground black pepper 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1/2teaspoon paprika 4 (4-ounce) trout fillets 4tablespoons butter, divided 2 tablespoons amaretto or orangejuice 2 tablespoons whiskey or orange juice 1/4 cupchopped pecans

In plastic or paper bag combine cornmeal with flour, thyme,salt, pepper, cayenne and paprika. Place trout fillet in bag andshake to coat evenly with cornmeal mixture. Remove fillet and repeatwith remaining ones.

Over medium-high heat melt 2 tablespoons butter in skillet. Addtrout, flesh-side down, and cook until golden, about 2 minutes.Gently turn with spatula and cook about 2 more minutes. Removefillets to serving platter. Place remaining 2 tablespoons butter andamaretto, whiskey and pecans in skillet. Cook over medium heat untilbubbly, about 1 minute. Pour over trout and serve. Makes 2 large, 4 regular servings. LOW-CALORIE RAINBOW TROUT WITH DILL-CUCUMBER YOGURT

1/2 cup plain low-fat yogurt 2 teaspoons fresh,minced dill 1/4 cup minced, peeled cucumber 2tablespoons minced scallion 4 (4-ounce) trout fillets Juice of 1/2 lemon

Combine yogurt, dill, cucumber and scallion in a bowl. Setaside. Arrange trout, skin-side down in microwaveable dish. Drizzlewith lemon juice; cover tightly. Microwave on high for 2 minutes.Rotate dish. Cook 2 to 4 minutes longer, or until fish flakes with afork. Remove from oven; top each fillet with 1/4 of yogurtmixture. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings; 185 calories perserving.